Is Ammonia IN Hair color really that bad?
The coffee vs tea analogy
As stylists, we get this question all the time: Is ammonia in hair color really that bad for your hair? And the answer is… it’s complicated.
Ammonia works by opening the hair cuticle, allowing color to deeply penetrate the hair shaft. The benefits? It delivers long-lasting results, is often more effective for stubborn grays, and works well when trying to go lighter. On the flip side, ammonia has a stronger smell, may irritate sensitive scalps, and if used too frequently - or on already weakened or bleached hair - it can lead to damage. It can also cause a harsh “root line” where new growth starkly contrasts with colored hair.
The alternative? MEA (Monoethanolamine). This ingredient opens the cuticle more gently and slowly. Benefits include being gentler on sensitive skin, less drying, and almost odorless. However, it may not cover grays as thoroughly, has limited lightening ability, and tends to linger in the hair, so proper rinsing is key. Sometimes, in an effort to boost performance, stylists might increase the developer strength. It might look great initially, but can fade brassy as the underlying tone washes out.
Here’s a quick analogy:
Ammonia is like caffeine - fast, effective, but can dehydrate and is best used in moderation.
MEA is more like tea - gentle, slower to act, and can quietly build up over time.
Bottom line: Both ammonia and MEA can be used well - or misused. A proper consultation that considers your short- and long-term hair goals is key to creating the right plan for your hair’s health and your desired look!
Ready to Achieve Your Hair Goals?
Here at Bedford & Grove Salon, our team of expert colorists combine decades of experience to help you achieve your perfect look - whether it’s color corrections, finding the right style for you, or simply reaching your hair goals.
Contact us today to book your appointment. Let us take care of your hair while you just sit back, relax, and enjoy the experience!
